Appliance consumption calculator
Add your appliances, set the hours each one really runs, and the total tells you where your units go — and which single load is responsible for most of them. Default wattages come from the appliance data pages, and every one of them is editable, because your own rating plate beats any table.
Your appliances
Wattages are typical figures for equipment sold in Pakistan. Replace any of them with the rating plate on your own appliance — that always wins.
| Appliance | Watts | Hours/day | How many | Units/month | Remove |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ceiling fan | 31.2 | ||||
| Refrigerator | 38.4 | ||||
| LED bulbs | 2.2 |
Monthly total
72 units
- Per day2.39 units
- Estimated bill on these unitsRs 1,895
- Largest single contributorRefrigerator — 38.4 units
- Protected statusAt or below 200 units — protected status preserved
This is an estimate built from your own inputs, not a bill. Slab rates, fuel adjustment and taxes are illustrative; the tariff table on your bill is the authority.
The hours matter more than the wattage
People sort appliances by how powerful they sound. The bill sorts them by watts multiplied by hours, and the two orderings barely resemble each other.
A 1,200 watt grinder used for four minutes a day contributes under 2 units a month. A 10 watt router running continuously contributes 7. A 2,000 watt geyser left on contributes 540. Nothing about the wattage predicts that ranking.
Use running hours, not switched-on hours
For anything that cycles under a thermostat — a refrigerator, a freezer, an iron, an air conditioner, a geyser holding temperature — the figure you want is how long the compressor or element is actually drawing, not how long the appliance is plugged in.
The defaults loaded here already account for that. If you change them, change them to running time or the total will be badly overstated.
Why the 200-unit line is called out
Residential protected status depends on staying at or below 200 units in every one of the last six billing cycles, and a single month above it moves the account onto the higher unprotected schedule for the next six.
For a household near that line, the question is not what a month costs but whether it breaks the status — because that consequence outlasts the month by half a year.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my calculated total different from my actual bill?
Three usual reasons: hours estimated optimistically, loads left off the list entirely, and the difference between switched-on time and running time on anything that cycles. Compare the calculated figure against the units line on your bill and adjust the hours until they agree — at that point the tool is calibrated to your house.
Does this include taxes and surcharges?
The estimated bill figure runs the unit total through the same illustrative slab, surcharge and tax model as the bill calculator. It is a rough figure for comparison, not a prediction of what will be printed on your statement.
How do I find the wattage of an appliance not on the list?
The rating plate — usually on the back or underside — states it in watts or in volts and amps, which multiply to give watts. Where only a horsepower or ton figure is given, use the unit converter to get an electrical input figure first.
Can I use this for a shop or small business?
The unit arithmetic works identically. The rupee estimate does not, because commercial tariffs carry fixed charges and a different rate structure than the domestic slabs modelled here.
Related
An estimate built from your inputs, not a bill. Slab rates, fuel adjustment and taxes are illustrative and NEPRA revises them regularly. Use this to understand where your units go, then use your official duplicate bill for any amount you intend to pay or dispute.